Mojo Spring Cleaning 2011

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New! Renè Martinez Product Line at Mojo Musical Supply

RM-Flyer-p1

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New! Pedal Parts at Mojo

Parts Pedal Jan2011

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New Guitar Parts at Mojo! Check it out…

NEW GUITAR PARTS AT MOJO!

(Week of Jan 3, 2011)

SWITCHWASHERS
2112631 Mojotone for Gibson Switchwasher Black with Gold Print
2112632 Mojotone for Gibson Switchwasher Ivory with Black Print
THUMB REST
2112633 Mojotone Bass Thumb Rest Black
GUITAR NUTS
2114244 Mojotone Graphite 4-String “Lefty” Bass Nut (1-11/16”x 1/4”)
2114232 Mojotone Graphite 4-String “Lefty” Bass Nut (1-5/8”x 1/4”)
2114224 Mojotone Graphite 4-String Bass Nut (1-1/2”x 1/8”)
2114240 Mojotone Graphite 4-String Bass Nut (1-11/16”x 1/4”)
2114236 Mojotone Graphite 4-String Bass Nut (1-11/16”x 1/8”)
2114226 Mojotone Graphite 4-String Bass Nut (1-5/8”x 1/8”)
2114248 Mojotone Graphite 5-String Bass Nut (1-3/4”x 1/4”)
2114250 Mojotone Graphite 5-String Bass Nut (1-3/4”x 1/8”)
2114210 Mojotone Plastic 4-String Bass Nut (1-11/16”x 1/4”)
2114204 Mojotone Plastic 4-String Bass Nut (1-5/8”x 1/4”)
2114200 Mojotone Plastic 4-String Bass Nut (1-5/8”x 1/8”)
2114216 Mojotone Plastic 5-String Bass Nut (1-11/16”x 1/4”)
2114218 Mojotone Plastic 5-String Bass Nut (1-3/4”x 1/8”)
2114246 Mojotone Graphite 6-String “Lefty” Guitar Nut (1-11/16”x 1/4”)
2114234 Mojotone Graphite 6-String “Lefty” Guitar Nut (1-5/8”x 1/4”)
2114242 Mojotone Graphite 6-String Guitar Nut (1-11/16”x 1/4”)
2114238 Mojotone Graphite 6-String Guitar Nut (1-11/16”x 1/8”)
2114230 Mojotone Graphite 6-String Guitar Nut (1-5/8”x 1/4”)
2114228 Mojotone Graphite 6-String Guitar Nut (1-5/8”x 1/8”)
2114214 Mojotone Plastic 6 String Guitar “Lefty” Nut (1-11/16”x 1/4”)
2114220 Mojotone Plastic 6-String Classical Guitar Nut (2”x 1/4”)
2114212 Mojotone Plastic 6-String Guitar Nut (1-11/16”x 1/4”)
2114208 Mojotone Plastic 6-String Guitar Nut (1-11/16”x 1/8”)
2114206 Mojotone Plastic 6-String Guitar Nut (1-5/8”x 1/4”)
2114202 Mojotone Plastic 6-String Guitar Nut (1-5/8”x 1/8”)
2114222 Mojotone Plastic 12-String Guitar Nut (1-7/8”x 1/4”)
BRIDGE PINS
2114300 Mojotone Plastic Acoustic Guitar Bridge Pins w/Dot (Set of 6)
2114302 Mojotone Plastic Acoustic Guitar Bridge Pins (Set of 6)
2114304 Mojotone Plastic Acoustic Guitar Bridge Pins “Thick Collar” w/Dot (Set of 6)
SADDLES
2114310 Mojotone Plastic Acoustic Guitar Saddle (3” x 1/8”)
2114314 Mojotone Plastic “Compensated” Acoustic Guitar Saddle (3” x 1/8”)
2114316 Mojotone Plastic Classical Guitar Saddle (3-1/8” x 3/32”)
PICKUP COVERS
2115272 Mojotone Single Coil Strat Pickup Cover White NO HOLES
2115273 Mojotone Single Coil Strat Pickup Cover Black NO HOLES
2115307 Mojotone 2-Hole Mount Long Soapbar Bass Pickup Cover Black
2115306 Mojotone 3-Hole Mount Alembic Bass Pickup Cover Black
2115292 Mojotone 4-Hole Mount Soapbar Bass Pickup Cover Black (Large
2115291 Mojotone 4-Hole Mount Soapbar Bass Pickup Cover Black (Small
2115308 Mojotone 4-Hole Mount Wide Soapbar Bass Pickup Cover Black
2115302 Mojotone EMG Style 2-Hole Mount Soapbar Bass Pickup Cover
2115303 Mojotone EMG Style 2-Hole Mount Soapbar Bass Pickup Cover
2115304 Mojotone EMG Style 2-Hole Mount Soapbar Bass Pickup Cover
2115289 Mojotone Music Man Bass Pickup Cover Black (4-String)
2115289 Mojotone Music Man Bass Pickup Cover Black (4-String)
2115288 Mojotone Music Man Bass Pickup Cover Black (5-String)
2115299 Mojotone Music Man Bass Pickup Cover Black NO HOLES (4 Strin
2115298 Mojotone Music Man Bass Pickup Cover Black NO HOLES (5 Strin
2115296 Mojotone Jazz Bass Pickup Cover Black NO HOLES
2115301 Mojotone P-Bass Pickup Cover Black NO HOLES
BOBBINS
2115418 Mojotone Humbucker Blade Pickup Bobbin Black
2115419 Mojotone Humbucker Blade Pickup Bobbin White
2115459 Mojotone Bass Blade Pickup Bobbin Black (6-String)
2115463 Mojotone Bass Blade Pickup Bobbin Black (4-String)
2115464 Mojotone Strat Blade Bridge Pickup Bobbin Black
KNOBS
7240004 ADA Flanger Black Push-On Knob
7240005 ADA Flanger Cream Push-On Knob
7240006 ADA Flanger White Push-On Knob
7240007 ADA Flanger Clear Push-On Knob
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Choosing the Right Resistor for Your Amplifier Project

John Manning

While browsing through Mojo’s store of resistors, you may have found yourself scratching your head over what type of resistor to select for your purpose.  Isn’t a resistor just a resistor— a pawn on the circuit board?  Why so many different types?  Well, they actually play a big role in the overall product of an amplifier circuit.

In the early days of electronic circuitry, carbon-composition resistors were really the only thing available besides wire-wound; this was current technology.  Then, over time, with the progression of electronics came different ways of producing resistors.  Eventually, we were provided with more options for cheap, like carbon-film, metal-oxide, and metal-film.  So, when we crack open our beloved vintage amps, we usually see an army of cool-looking carbon-comp. resistors.

Due to the carbon-comps.’ technological antiquity, there are some inherent problems in its design, though many will slap my wrist for using the term “problems.”  With any resistor, there exists a voltage coefficient of resistance.  Basically, it describes the varying resistance when there is an increase or decrease in voltage across the resistor.  Usually, the coefficient is negative, which means that resistance falls with an increase in voltage.  If it is large enough, the inconsistency will result in resistor distortion.  Carbon-comps. normally have a higher V.C.R. than newer types.  Barth Electronics provides an article on V.C.R. which states:

The voltage coefficient varies with different resistive
materials, and seems to be greatest for materials that are composed
of a granular conglomeration of resistive material held together
with an insulating binder. Carbon composition and cermet film
resistors use these types of resistive materials.

These days, the difference may not be much, but in the carbon-comp. days, it was enough to create audible distortion.  When you see “new production” carbon-comp. resistors, that means that generally, they are going to perform a bit better in regards to the manufacturer’s specifications because of advancements in production.  Included in those specifications is the V.C.R. rating of the resistor.  Today, you may find the rating to be 0.005%/V compared to the carbon-comps. of the vintage era to be around 0.035%/V.

This particular “problem” with carbon-comp. resistors is one of the reasons that amp designers do continue to use them.  Resistor distortion causes harmonics which can be pleasant to the ear.  When used in the right areas of the amp, this “problem” can be used to your advantage.  By utilizing carbon-comps. as plate resistors on the output where the voltage is high, the second harmonic coloring is maximized.  Here, a well designed front end will deliver the signal to the plates of the output where the carbon-comp. can add some style.  On the other hand, by placing a carbon-comp. early on in the signal path can create unwanted noise which is amplified by the output stage.

Noise is another issue to consider when choosing resistors because all resistors produce noise. Do they still seem trivial?  Wire-wound resistors are the least noisy followed by metal-film, metal-oxide, and carbon-film.  The noisiest— carbon comp.  So, if you are concerned with noise, use metal-film resistors, especially in the input stage.  Aiken Amps has a great article that goes into detail about the different types of noise that a resistor can produce.  Check out the link below.

Another area of the amp circuit that should not contain carbon-comp. resistors is the power supply.  Since most carbon-comp. resistors new and old are not UL94-VO protected, which is a flameproof coating, they should stay away from the B line.

One more thing to consider is the power rating of the resistor.  You would think that ideally the larger the better, right?  Well, it is true that larger wattage resistors with larger geometries produce less noise than smaller resistors, but at the same time, their V.C.R. tends to be larger as well.  So, it is best to use a power rating that is large enough for the application without being much larger than is necessary.

Okay, so hopefully you’re a little more comfortable with what resistors to order.  Basically, if you want to build a vintage replica, use carbon-comp. throughout.  Remember, there’s a reason we like vintage amps; they were noisy and full of character.  If you’re building an amp from scratch, use newer metal-film or metal-oxide in the input stages, and experiment with carbon comp. flavoring in the high voltage areas of the output.  Finally, find a good median between the resistor’s power rating and what is required for the application.  There is no real benefit of using high rated resistors everywhere in the amp.

Here’s some good reading on the subject:

Electronics Tutorials: Resistor Types

Aiken Amps: Resistor Types— Does it Matter?

Barth Electronics: Voltage Coefficient of Resistance Application Note

R.G. Keen: Using the Carbon Comp Resistor for Magic Mojo

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Wiring Your Speaker Cabinet

Now that you’ve received your new unloaded Mojo cabinet, it’s time to install a set of speakers to finish it up.  The following is a guide for wiring a speaker cabinet correctly to match the output impedance of your amp.

Impedance is an equivalent resistance that an inductor or capacitor produces in a circuit. Therefore, without delving into Ohm’s Law, from which our process for calculating total impedance is derived, we can start with the basic equations for calculating series and parallel resistance.  The difference between impedance and resistance can be disregarded for this application.

Loads that are wired together in series result in a total resistance (impedance) that is equal to the sum of all loads or resistances in the circuit.


Wiring loads together in parallel results in a total resistance that is equal to the reciprocal of the sum of all reciprocals of each load.


This will come in handy when a circuit has more than two loads in parallel, but by rearranging variables, we get a more accessible equation for calculating the total resistance of two loads in parallel.

This form can certainly be used for cabinets with more than two speakers.  Calculate the resistance of two of the speakers in parallel, calculate the resistance of the next two speakers in parallel (assuming the cabinet has four speakers), then calculate the total resistance of the two results in parallel.


If all of your speakers have the same resistance value, the calculation can be further simplified.  Notice above that four 16Ω speakers in parallel have a total resistance of 4Ω.  It is safe to assume that dividing the resistance value of the speakers by the number of speakers will yield the total resistance.  Remember, this is true only for loads in parallel with the same resistance value.

Calculating for Power

The big thing to consider regarding speaker installation is the power your amplifier outputs.  If the amp is rated for 100W, the cabinet should be able to accept more than 100W for safe operation.  So, if you have a 4×12 speaker cabinet and a 100W amplifier, four speakers rated at 30W would be safe.  The cabinet is rated at 120W.  Failure to plan for a safe cabinet power rating could result in blown speakers if the amplifier output is higher than what the cabinet is designed for.  If a voice coil fails, the resistance load of the cabinet can alter depending on the wiring method.  If the value falls below what the amplifier’s output impedance is set for, the output transformer is likely to fail.  So, avoid the expense of replacing your equipment and plan ahead.

The following is a set of wiring diagrams for the most popular speaker cabinet configurations.

Note: The series-parallel and parallel-series configurations function the same electrically.  The names for each are interchangeable which is apparent when searching for these configurations on the web.  We’ve labeled them in this fashion simply because they show up in other web resources more often than the other way around.  Furthermore, we know of no real proof that supports theories of tonal differences between the two.  However, if there is good scientific data to back it up, let us know about it; we’re eager to learn.  Please, no AB listening tests.  

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Thanks to those who stopped by…

Thanks to those who stopped by the Mojo booth in Philly this past weekend. Always cool to meet Mojo customers. Stay tuned for Turkey sale!

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Show Us Your Mojo Spotlight: Fender ’66 Vibrolux Reverb Cab

Hi George,Just finished the conversion on the Fender ’66 Vibrolux Reverb, thought you might like to see some pics.

It turned out extremely well. Locating and accurately drilling the chassis mounting screw holes was a bit painstaking, but other than that, everything went together smoothly. Thank your cabinet shop for me, they did a great job.

Sincerely,
Bill Gruner

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Come see Mojo @ the #Philadelp…

Come see Mojo @ the #Philadelphia PA #Guitar show this weekend booth # 600 great deals!!. . .http://www.bee3vintage.com/south_philly.html

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Show Us Your… Purple Elephant

Andrew,
The cab came today…looks great and all hooked up with a Scumback H55. Here’s a photo with the Pocket Rocket that I had made for my son, a Trainwreck Rocket circuit amp with miniature tubes.

Serge

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